Why Kesawan Is a Food Lover's Paradise

Jalan Kesawan — officially known as Jalan Ahmad Yani — is not just Medan's most photographed street. It's also one of the city's most rewarding culinary destinations. Flanked by century-old shophouses and colonial buildings, this historic strip has nurtured a food culture that blends Malay, Chinese, Indian, and Dutch-colonial influences into something truly unique.

Whether you're a local looking for new favorites or a traveler arriving for the first time, here's a guide to the most iconic foods and eateries you should not miss in and around Kesawan.

1. Bika Ambon — Medan's Signature Sponge Cake

Despite the name suggesting Ambon, Bika Ambon is widely considered Medan's signature sweet snack. This honeycomb-textured cake is made from tapioca flour, coconut milk, pandan, and eggs, giving it a slightly chewy, fragrant quality unlike any other cake in Indonesia.

Around Kesawan and nearby Jalan Majapahit, you'll find numerous shops selling freshly baked Bika Ambon in flavors ranging from original to cheese and durian. It makes an excellent edible souvenir.

2. Mie Gomak — The Batak Noodle Dish

Mie Gomak is a traditional Batak dish made with thick spaghetti-like noodles tossed in rich coconut milk and andaliman pepper — a citrusy, numbing spice native to North Sumatra. Street stalls near the Kesawan area serve this dish in both dry and soup versions, perfect for breakfast or lunch.

3. Soto Medan

Unlike other regional soto varieties across Indonesia, Soto Medan is distinguished by its rich, coconut milk-based broth. The golden, creamy soup is typically served with chicken or beef, boiled egg, tomato, and a crispy emping cracker on the side. Several longstanding warung (small eateries) near Kesawan serve this dish from early morning.

4. Roti Bakar at Night Cafés

Come nightfall, Kesawan transforms into an open-air café district. Vendors set up tables along the sidewalks, serving roti bakar (toasted bread) with fillings like chocolate, cheese, peanut butter, and condensed milk — paired with iced coffee or teh tarik. This is a beloved local ritual, especially on weekends.

5. Durian — Seasonal but Unmissable

Medan is widely regarded as home to some of the finest durian in Southeast Asia. During peak season (typically June–August and December–January), durian stalls appear throughout the city, including near Kesawan. Look for Durian Ucok on Jalan Iskandar Muda, a short drive away, for a legendary durian experience.

Tips for Eating Your Way Through Kesawan

  • Go in the evening: Many street food stalls set up after 6 PM, creating a lively atmosphere along the main street.
  • Try the Chinese-Indonesian spots: Several old-school Chinese-Malay restaurants near the old post office date back generations and serve authentic local classics.
  • Bring cash: Smaller stalls and traditional warung often don't accept card payments.
  • Come hungry on weekends: Saturday and Sunday nights see the most variety and the most vendors.

Final Bite

Kesawan's food scene is inseparable from its identity as a cultural melting pot. Each dish you try here tells a story — of migration, trade, and centuries of coexistence. So slow down, pull up a plastic chair, and eat like a local.